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On Arrival

Telephone (t) Sofia Airport
Phone number 00359 2 937 followed by:
2211 [Departures]
2212 [Arrivals]
2213 [Domestic Flights]
2191 [V.I.P]
2491 [Lost and Found]

Webpage www.sofia-airport.bg

£ € Lv

Lv does not stand for Luncheon Vouchers, it is the Bulgarian currency (pounds to pence = leva to stotinki, nb 100 stotinki = 1 lev). Approximate exchange rates are 1€ : 1.95Lv and 1£ : 2.53Lv. There are ATMs and banks in terminal 2.
nota bene The 20Lv (BGN), €50 and 100$ notes are the most frequently counterfeited notes in the country.

Car Hire

Requires a valid UK or international driving licence, from 18 years of age.
There are many car hire companies with a wide selection of cars, small vans and minibuses. The hire rates vary considerably, get three quotes or use one of our Advantage Card suppliers. Sofia is congested, locals jump the lights, ignore ‘stop’ and ‘giveway’ signs, overtake on the inside, have road-rage and speed – much like all other capital cities. The quality of the roads is dire, potholes the size of gorges plague the lives of the local pygmies and cars alike.

Road signs are in Cyrillic, sparse and are often missing (due to their scrap metal value). They are misleading, rule of thumb is to follow the road you are on until directed otherwise – stop before Bosnia!

Taxis

Beware of the taxi touts on the airport concourse, head for the official ranks of yellow taxis outside. The fare to the ‘Centrum’ from the airport should be no more than 10Lv (€5), a 10% tip is normal, don’t expect a smile!

On a budget: 84 bus from terminal 1, 284 bus from terminal 2. Each provide the eventual opportunity to arrive at Sofia University having seen the sights and also lots of straight-faced fellow travellers.

No money: A 10km walk (not in the ramblers / Berlitz / Lonely Planet or Rough guides)


Beggars

Reputedly a part of organised crime, begging is on the increase. From crawling along Vitosha Boulevard on hands and knees to young children washing windscreens at traffic lights. Refusal to contribute to “the cause” can result in extreme persistence followed by a diarrhoea-like flow of expletives. It is better not to engage in the first place, there are two sides of the road or water-jets and windscreen wipers. Numerous other examples of begging exist and it is believed that by giving money it will further encourage potentially repulsive exploitation and indeed not solve any problems. In the meantime we will be at our usual pitch in the morning!


British Embassy

Location 9 Moskovska Str
Phone number 00359 2 933 9222


Corruption

Having been berated by Bulgarian friends, colleagues and advertisers after the First Edition contained a section entitled Mutri I am forced to concede that whilst this may have been the situation in the 90’s it is different now. Indeed then, my knowledge of Bulgaria was limited to a flight path and passing over the country at 30,000 feet. The original text read:

‘Welcome to Bulgaria’s underworld ranging from smuggling cigarettes, petrol and heroin, extortion, prostitution, “protection” rackets to controlling the Black Sea beaches.

Most Mutri carry firearms and would not be afraid to use the slightly concealed MAC-10 or Glock 18, a ‘no guns allowed’ sign is as common in Bulgaria as a ‘no dogs allowed’ sign in the UK. The police claim to have the Mutri under control, Bulgarians are wary of such a claim.

The characteristic look is that of thick-neck and “bulldog chewing a wasp”, too much jewellery, expensive mobile phones, drive a 4x4 (probably an Audi Q7, Mercedes ML420 or indeed anything up to a Porsche Cayenne Magnum). Minders’ dress code is colour co-ordinated black, junior mutri may don a shell suit whereas Messrs Big are more likely to wear a silk suit. They listen to chalga, if Bulgarian folk music could be fed steroids then turbo-charged, it would resemble chalga. They do not listen to Mutresi.’


The original assertion was based on the fact that there are ‘no guns allowed’ signs displayed in shops and restaurants. The genre described are regularly witnessed and many results appear when ‘Corruption in Bulgaria’ is Googled. A 2008 European Commission website entry states ‘When Bulgaria and Romania joined the EU in 2007, both countries had weaknesses in their judicial systems and problems with corruption. Bulgaria was also struggling to control organised crime. The general conclusion is that both have made genuine efforts, particularly in judicial reform, and that progress has been made. But more work is needed.

The report calls on the government to intensify reforms. Bulgaria is warned that its fight against corruption and organised crime is not yielding sufficient results. Criminals often go unpunished, and their financial assets are rarely frozen. The financing of political parties is also largely unregulated. Irregularities in financial management have prompted the commission to suspend some EU funding over the last six months. The report calls on Bulgaria to ‘translate words into deeds and deliver on its commitment to serious reform’. The assessments are based on information from the two countries’ governments, the commission, other EU countries with a presence in Bulgaria or Romania and civil society bodies.’

So as Bulgaria succumbs to the European Union, the section entitled ‘Mutri’ is banished to the annals of history.


Crime

Serious crime is relatively common in the underworld of the Mutri, not something likely to affect you unless you are incredibly stupid or incredibly unfortunate. Like any other capital city there are incidents of bag-snatching and pickpockets around Sofia, more prevalent in certain areas such as Zhenski Pazar (Women’s Market) as Leicester Square is to London.
Invest wisely as installations, maintenance and monitoring are relatively cheap whether for your chic Sofia apartment or country pile.
There is a greater likelihood of someone responding to a burglar alarm in Bulgaria than there is in the UK. Therefore, invest wisely as installations, maintenance and monitoring are relatively cheap whether for your chic Sofia apartment or country pile.
Unless you have a reasonable grasp of the Cyrillic language or Bulgarian assistance with it, don’t bother to call the Emergency number (the chance of finding an English speaker are more remote than a lottery win).
It is technically a good idea to report any incident at a local police station, this will involve a lot of waiting around and the possible opportunity to meet one of the many female shot-putting champions. Contact your embassy to report any incident at the earliest opportunity.


Dental Treatment

There are many English-speaking dentists in Sofia, the quality of dental treatment is excellent and very reasonably priced. Whether a frequent visitor to Sofia or intent on wellness tourism, consideration should be given to planned or emergency treatment (some practices offer 24/7 cover). Below are contact details for a number of practices, further assistance or personal recommendations please to info@sofiago.com:

Webpage http://klinikinedialkov.com/index_en.php
Webpage http://medstom.com/www/index.php?lang=1
Webpage http://www.dsdent.com/index_eng.html

A recent review of one such practice the Centre for Dental Medicines ‘St George’.


Electricity

220v using standard European two-prong plugs (buy adaptors for three-pin plugs before you leave the UK) or contact info@sofiago.com where adapters can be purchased for €6 plus €2.50 delivery.


Emergency

Phone number 112 (similar to 999)


‘ET phone home’

Or in Bulgaria, buy a SIMM card for Groupe Spécial Mobile (GSM) from one of three providers M-tel, Globul or Vivatel.


Golf

Such is the furore about golf in Bulgaria that the state-run company Golf Development was formed, the Prime Minister scuppered the notion the day afterwards. The saying “everything in moderation” does not apply to Bulgaria. Beautiful coastal villages become concrete monstrosities, ski resorts grow out of all proportion. Bulgaria is not known for its golf, the love is football and n’er the twain shall meet.

There are approximately 507½ golfers in Bulgaria, less than the membership of a typical club in the UK.
There are approximately 507½ golfers in Bulgaria, less than the membership of a typical club in the UK. There are three golf courses in Bulgaria: Air Sofia Golf Club at Intiman (45km SE of Sofia); Sliven Golf Club and St Sofia Golf Club (15km SE of Sofia). Tee times are available at the weekend but 18 holes and club hire at the newly opened St Sofia is not cheap at 118 leva (€61). Under construction to the North of the Black Sea coast is the Lighthouse Golf Resort, Black Sea Rama and the Thracian Cliffs Golf & Spa Resort. Near to the Air Sofia Golf Club, there is a Jack Nicklaus ‘signature’ course at Ibar Golf Club allegedly designed by Chevy Nicklaus who is apparently famous in his own backyard. In an attempt to further over-develop a ski resort, or perhaps just use the same clubhouse there is Pirin Golf & Country Club, Razlog Golf Course, Bansko Golf Course, Razlog Valley Golf & Spa, Rila Golf & Spa Resort and White Mountain Golf Club. The list is not exhaustive but soon there could be a course for each player and a nine hole too!


Language

For those of you who are linguistically challenged, go to the last paragraph under this heading (after the colourful blue lettering), otherwise please read on!

The development of the Bulgarian language may be divided into several historical periods.
- Prehistoric period - occurred between the Slavonic migration to eastern Balkans and the mission of St. Cyril and St. Methodius to Great Moravia in the 860s.
- Old Bulgarian (9th to 11th century, also referred to as Old Church Slavonic) - a literary norm of the early southern dialect of the Common Slavic language from which Bulgarian evolved. It was used by St. Cyril, St. Methodius and their disciples to translate the Bible and other liturgical literature from Greek into Slavic.
- Middle Bulgarian (12th to 15th century) - a literary norm that evolved from the earlier Old Bulgarian, after major innovations were accepted. It was a language of rich literary activity and the official administration language of the Second Bulgarian Empire.
- Modern Bulgarian - dates from the 16th century onwards, undergoing general grammar and syntax changes in the 18th and 19th centuries. Present-day written Bulgarian language was standardized on the basis of the 19th-century Bulgarian vernacular. The historical development of the Bulgarian language can be described as a transition from a highly synthetic language (Old Bulgarian) to a typical analytic language (Modern Bulgarian) with Middle Bulgarian as a midpoint in this transition.
Modern Bulgarian was based essentially on the Eastern dialects of the language, but its pronunciation is in many respects a compromise between East and West Bulgarian (see especially the phonetic sections below).

Alphabet

In 886 AD, Bulgaria replaced its old runic alphabet of the proto- Bulgars with the Glagolitic alphabet which was devised by the Saints Cyril and Methodius in the 850s. The Glagolitic alphabet was gradually superseded in later centuries by the Cyrillic alphabet, developed around the Preslav Literary School in the beginning of the 10th century. Most letters in the Cyrillic alphabet were borrowed from the Greek, Hebrew, and Glagolic alphabets. Several Cyrillic alphabets with 28 to 44 letters were used in the beginning and the middle of the 19th century during the efforts on the codification of Modern Bulgarian until an alphabet with 32 letters, proposed by Marin Drinov, gained prominence in the 1870s. The alphabet of Marin Drinov was used until the orthographic reform of 1945 when the letters yat (, , called "double e"), and yus (, ) were removed from the alphabet, reducing the number of letters to 30.

Nowadays the Bulgarian language is written in the Cyrillic script and occasionally in the Latin. Road signs and street signs are almost always written in the two scripts. In Sofia, however, the street signs are never in Latin.

With accession of Bulgaria to the European Union on January 1, 2007, Cyrillic became the third official alphabet of the EU. The following table gives the letters of the Bulgarian alphabet, along with the IPA values for the sound of each letter:



This is a terribly difficult language to learn, the English letters include Aa; Ee; Kk; Mm; Oo and Tt – not bad to have 6 out of 26 you chorus, but there are 30 in the Bulgarian alphabet. It becomes worse, English letters that are not Cyrillic include Jj; Qq and Ww, however the single character Ø represents two letters pronounced sh (as in short). To confuse matters further, as with the French language there are genders, beer is feminine! When you master Bulgarian, the taxi drivers will still be rude, but you will be ready to exert your most masochistic tendency by moving onto the Russian language. Bulgarian language teaching is provided by:

American English Academy
Phone number 978 0136
Location 4th Floor, 150 School , Deliyska Vodenitsa, Druzhba 2
Webpage www.aea-bg.com

AVO-Bell School of English
Phone number 943 3943 64 Dondukov Blvd
Location 2A Krakia Str
Webpage www.avo-bell.com

Lingua Rex
Phone number 981 4956
Location 4th Floor, 9 Pirotska Str
Webpage Veselina_shopova@dir.bg

St Kliment Ohridski University of Sofia
Phone number 871 0069
Location Department for Language Teaching and International Students, 27 Kosta Lulchev Str
Webpage www.deo.uni-sofia.bg

Welcome to Bulgaria
Phone number 866 4553
Location 35 Sveti Naum Str
Webpage www.welcometobulgaria.bg


Locate

The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) has now set up a new, improved, online registration service called LOCATE for British nationals travelling or living abroad to register themselves with the FCO.
In order to use LOCATE, you need to register separately but you will only need to register once. British nationals who are either resident in or visiting any country, whether for business or pleasure, should register their details online. The registration details will remain on LOCATE but will not remain after their end date. LOCATE will accept details of travel abroad up to one year ahead. Please note that an existing subscription to the FCO’s Online Services will not allow access to LOCATE, please register your details

Webpage http://www.locate.fco.gov.uk/locateportal


Medical Treatment

The following information appertaining to the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) was extracted from the FCO website www.fco.gov.uk You should obtain a EHIC before you travel – it gives the holder rights to healthcare that may become necessary during a temporary visit to EEA (European Economic Area) countries or Switzerland. The EHIC replaced the E111 form in Jan 2006. The E111 form is no longer valid.

Who is entitled to an EHIC?
· people who are normally resident in the UK can apply for an EHIC
· aged 16 or over
There may be some restrictions depending on your nationality – visit the Department of Health website for more info about who is eligible. Residents of the Channel Islands and the Isle Of Man are NOT eligible.
Remember: each person in your group requires a card.

Carry your EHIC with you at all times to prove you are entitled to healthcare.
What does the EHIC cover?
If you have an accident or suddenly become ill you’ll receive the necessary state-provided medical healthcare for free or at reduced cost.You’ll be treated on the same terms as insured nationals of the country you’re in.Tip: carry your EHIC with you at all times to prove you are entitled to healthcare.
The EHIC does NOT cover:
· all your medical costs
· private treatment (generally not covered)
· repatriation to the UK.
Remember: overseas state-provided healthcare may not cover things you receive for free on the NHS.
EHIC does NOT mean you’re insured!
You will still need appropriate insurance to ensure you are fully covered for all eventualities.

Remember:
few EU countries pay the full cost of medical treatment, even under the European Union’s healthcare arrangements.

You still need sufficient travel insurance to cover healthcare costs. Read more information about buying travel insurance.
Many people think an EHIC will be enough and don’t take out insurance. They regret this when they have to pay thousands of pounds for an air ambulance back to the UK or pay out for extra accommodation to stay with a sick relative.

Where is the EHIC valid?
The EHIC is valid in the European Economic Area and Switzerland. The European Economic Area is made up of all 27 members of the European Union plus Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway.

How do I get my free EHIC?
· apply on the Department of Health or European Health Insurance Card website
· phone 0845 606 2030
· complete the Department of Health's leaflet Health Advice for Travellers (HAFT) available in UK Post Offices or by calling 08701 555 455

Assistance with minor complaints are most easily dealt with in a chemists shop, or Apteka.
Assistance with minor complaints are most easily dealt with in a chemists shop, or Apteka. There is an abundance of Apteka, one close to your accommodation will be 0 – 24 (open all day). However being understood is a different matter and may require mimicking a bee, for a sting; or searching for “Huwee” on the great white telephone to convey sickness. Indeed ultimately, exposure of the offending bodily part may be required in the certain knowledge this will be a subject of derision around many Bulgarian tables later. For more serious issues, the diagnosis is grim. Bulgarian doctors are exceptionally well trained but the equipment, treatment, aftercare and support services are comparatively poor when measured against Western Europe. In 2007 the Tokuda Hospital, private and Japanese funded, opened its doors to all and shines like a beacon throughout Sofia.


Mannerisms

The shake or nod of a head throughout the Balkans is diametrically opposed to what you currently understand. From the older generations of Bulgarians a nod of a head (like the insurer, Churchill’s, nodding dog) indicates ne, no, negative. To gently shake you head from side to side, therefore not indicative of a seizure, communicates da, yes, positive.
The younger generations sometimes adopt the more conventional western approach with a nod for yes etc. This leads to immense confusion as there is no way of knowing which convention the Bulgarian has adopted. To compound the problem, there are a number of Bulgarians who become confused by the different conventions and ultimately move there head round in a circular motion as if practising Yoga.
Encountering a group of Bulgarians in conversation is scary. If there are a group of four, never less than two will speak at the same time, frequently three and often four. The result is a cacophony of sound depicting the most dire difference of opinion only to learn these are friends enjoying the company of one another.


Mutri

Welcome to Bulgaria’s underworld of smuggling cigarettes, petrol and heroin, extortion, prostitution, “protection” rackets to controlling the Black Sea beaches.
Most Mutri carry firearms and would not be afraid to use the slightly concealed MAC-10 or Glock 18, a ‘no guns allowed’ sign is as common in Bulgaria as a ‘no dogs allowed’ sign in the UK. The police claim to have the Mutri under control, Bulgarians are wary of such a claim. A particularly well-appointed appointed restaurant became so and was attributed to the Mutri, not because of any outstanding interior design features contributed, more the assassination by contract killing masterminded and carried out by rival Mutri.
The characteristic look is that of thick-neck and “bulldog chewing a wasp”, too much jewellery, expensive mobile phones, drive a 4x4 (probably an Audi Q7, Mercedes ML420 or indeed anything up to a Porsche Cayenne Magnum). Minders’ dress code is colour coordinated black, junior mutri may don a shell suit whereas Messrs Big are more likely to wear a silk suit. They listen to chalga, if Bulgarian folk music could be fed steroids then turbo-charged, that would describe chalga. They do not listen to Mutresi.


Mutresi

Not actually the female version of Mutri (which does not exist), more the female attachment to a Mutri. Characteristically fake blond hair, too much jewellery, a bling handbag and a fantastic figure. Probably believes that a hard day’s work is a trip to the beauty salon and then also the gym. As a couple, their combined IQ will not exceed 100.


Tipping

Many consider that the service in Bulgaria is the worst in Europe. Extremely impolite to verging on downright rude is the attitude that prevails in the service sector from taxi drivers to waiters to shop assistants. There would appear to be no interest whatsoever in making another sale, moreover they will try and find anything to do and also avoid looking at you rather than providing assistance. If however, you should commit the heinous crime of withholding the customary 10 per cent tip, take consolation the tip is based on your satisfaction of service and is therefore not obligatory. If a restaurant is to add a service charge then it should be notified on the menu.


Water

Or H2O, makes up around 70 per cent of the human body. It's important for digestion, joint function, healthy skin and removal of waste products.
Dehydration occurs when more fluid is lost from the body than is taken in. This causes an imbalance in important minerals, such as sodium and potassium, which are required for muscle and nerve function. If there is a one per cent or greater loss in body weight because of fluid loss, dehydration occurs. This may be mild, moderate or severe, depending on the amount lost.
At one end of the scale, mild dehydration may cause someone to feel only a little thirsty. At the other end, severe dehydration can result in death.
So throw caution to the wind, tap water is safe to drink throughout Bulgaria although an abundance of good local mineral water is cheap and available everywhere.